Obediah Lives

Luck in Havana

2009-10-29T16:11:00.000-05:00

I am sorry that you will have to twist your neck to see this properly. Sigh,.

If the first thing that you should see on entering a Cuban’s home is an elephant’s derriere, try not to be overly offended. Cubans are generally very warm and hospitable people and mean no insult. But elephant trunks bring good luck, unless you have them pointed towards the front door, in which case all the luck will flow out as you walk in.

And speaking of front doors, if you start to wonder why many of them have little strips of red cloth tied to them, as do the back bumpers of many cars – especially vintage ones - wonder no more. Its not to remind people to shut the door after they leave, nor is it an attempt to prevent vintage bumpers from falling off. Its more good luck. And given the impressive age of many of the cars around, you’ll appreciate that a little piece of luck can go quite a long way.

A few days ago, a little piece of luck dropped straight from the heavens and landed right on the top of my head. This was thanks to some spiteful little Cuban bird which I had chosen not to share my lunch with while eating at the Al Medina restaurant.

Apart from the wildlife, Al Medina is a very nice little Arab restaurant in an old colonial casa in Havana Vieja. Many of the dishes will be familiar to Jamaicans – Lebanese or Syrian delicacies like hummus (not as good as ours in Jamaica – too grainy and not enough garlic) kibbie, salads, grilled chicken (which tasted very much like every other piece of chicken I’ve had in Cuba), pita bread, babaganoush (or however that is spelt – but its the eggplant dip), lobster kebabs and other bits and pieces. You can sit in the courtyard, with grape vines above and an old gurgling fountain behind, stupid little birds flitting around and looking harmless. Nearby there is a well behaved parrot chatting away to no one in particular and sitting safely in a cage – no threat there.

A Cuban band plays on – “Guantanamera, guajira Guantanmera..... Guantanameeeeeeera, guajira Guantanmera” – is obligatory. Much like ‘One Love’ must be heard by tourists in Jamaica at least 10 times per day. But you may also get some Stevie Wonder. And the Beatles ‘old hit “Hey Jude” lives on in Havana and the Al Medina – but with a salsa twist.

Back to my little piece of luck, which is still sitting on top of my head. Oh, how the band smiled. Oh, how my Cubana laughed. Its good luck she said – it will bring you money. I quickly wiped the stuff off – only to find out that bird excrement is the colour of all other types of animal excrement and not white at all - shattering another of my treasured myths. As I went to the bathroom to intensify my clean-up campaign the lady outside (who expects you to pay her a couple coins for keeping the bathroom clean) smiles and says “Suave – mucho dinero” – Good luck – much money. Perhaps she meant much money for her. She got that one wrong.

I can’t promise you the same kind of luck – but I can promise you a most pleasurable dining experience at the Al Medina. Expect to pay about 25 convertible pesos for a meal for two, including beer (I needed that trust me). And its a good opportunity to vary your diet from the usual Cuban fare.

Please though, if you do go and see a stupid little bird with an evil smirk on its face, do me a favour and throw it a piece of bread. Directly at its head, and as hard as you can. And while I’m still waiting for that big bundle of dinero, I do feel lucky that at least elephants (trunks pointing where they may), cows and pigs don’t fly.

Havana Neighbourhoods

2009-10-15T12:30:00.000-05:00

I am staying with a Cuban family here in Havana, in a two-bedroom apartment – maybe the same size as mine in Kingston, maybe a little smaller. Louvers for windows. Burglar bars – which I find a little surprising. Glass front doors, which I find even more surprising. The balcony I’m sitting on is painted an aquamarine colour – in contrast to the khaki, grey and white apartment block opposite. Both blocks are about five stories tall, and both look like they are in need of some loving care. Residents have made alterations – this one with glass windows, that one without burglar bars, this one with mustard coloured walls on their balcony, that one with plants.

Some neighbours across the street yell over the traffic to have a conversation with a family on my side of the street. “Oye! Como estas?” the conversation starts, as it starts to rain yet again. Now here they come across the road dodging raindrops and bringing Nestle’s ice cream to celebrate something or other together.

This neighbourhood is called San Agustin, and the apartment blocks look like they were built about 40 years ago – post-revolution in other words. Each block contains about 100 apartments I’d guess. Some of the street is lined with palm trees – a symbol of Cuba. Perhaps some were blown down by recent hurricanes.

I’ve been to a few parts of Havana – Havana Vieja is the oldest part, with bits of the old city wall still visible. A cannon at the Morro Castle across the water still sounds at around 9:00 p.m. every night. Originally this was to warn residents that the city gates were closing, but now the tradition serves to attract hundreds of tourists each night to witness the ceremony, complete with soldiers in 18th century uniform. Its quite a spectacle, and the roaring boom makes you jump, even as you know it will happen. And should it sound at 8:57 instead of 9:00, as it did for me a few nights ago, it makes you jump even more. But if tourists are willing to go out of their way to watch and hear a cannon go off in Havana, then surely they’d be willing to do the same in Port Royal or some of our other forts.

The nearby neighbourhood of Havana Central has the Capitolio, which is a copy somewhat of the Capitol building in Washington D.C. Well, I haven’t actually been to the one in the States, but this one is spectacular and supposedly more detailed. Marble everywhere. A massive statue inside, and a faux diamond under the dome, which is the point from which distances in Cuba is measured.

The next area over (moving East) is Vedado, which means forbidden. Houses were not allowed to be constructed here, so as not to obstruct the view of any oncoming attacking ships. So Vedado developed later, mainly in the early 20th century, and contains many beautiful and ornate homes for the wealthy at the time. Its also home to several bars, restaurants and hotels. Nothing in Kingston really compares – but the closest thing may be the Golden Triangle.

Next to that you have Miramar – where the really wealthy used to live before the revolution – and now the relatively wealthy still do. Some years ago, Argentina’s Maradonna spent some time here recovering from drug abuse. Its where our embassy is along with most others – except of course the American, which does not have an embassy in Cuba. They do have a interest section – which is a bit of a skyscraper on the Malecon (Havana’s famous sea wall) and which looks to be much bigger than the US embassy in Kingston.

San Agustin is not much next to these neighbourhoods. But its real. The rain is really starting to fall now, I better get in before I do some damage to my lap top.

Rocking in San Augustin

2009-10-07T17:04:00.000-05:00

Here I am sitting in an old rocking chair, on a balcony in San Agustin, - a suburb of Havana which is hardly mentioned in the tourist guides. Birds chirping all around, old cars chugging along. I can smell Sunday lunches being prepared in near-by apartments. Sometimes mingling with the odour of exhaust fumes.

Its about 2:00 in the afternoon, and lunch is cooking in a pressure cooker. It’s a cut-up chicken which had been marinating in vinegar, onions and garlic with some sliced potatoes . No scotch bonnet in sight. Cuban-Americans crave this vinegar as apparently they can’t get anything like it in Miami. It doesn’t seem all that special to me, but then again maybe we too have fantastic vinegar. The rice cooker has about finished its job, and there will hopefully be black beans to go with that, for a dish called Moors and Christians – the white rice representing the Christians and the black beans the Moorish invaders.

The street is quite busy – with just about every form of automobile passing by. Here comes a Lada taxi. Now a motorbike – male rider carrying a rather large woman stuffed in a canary coloured jumpsuit. Now one with a sidecar – yes they still exist.

Dominoes are being played in the distance – you can hear them banging on the table and occasionally being shuffled, but without the boastful voices that you might hear in Jamaica. Perhaps the players need greater concentration as they play with a double-nine as opposed to our meagre double-six.

There goes a bus, quite full, and blaring salsa music – “Baby, te quiro, baby te quiero o o “ as it lets off about six passengers. Now an army jeep. And now a beautiful old American car from the 1950s – a powder blue Pontiac with a white roof and trim. These museum pieces serve mainly as taxis – its only $1 peso CUC to Havana Vieja in one of these – but up to $20 CUC if you take a tourist taxi. No bicitaxis (rickshaws to us) have passed yet. They are being outlawed in Calcutta, but they abound in Havana – and London’s Soho for that matter.

There’s not much in the immediate area, but nearby is a little park, which you get to by walking to the end of the street and crossing the main road. A vacant piece of land has been used as a makeshift garbage dump, familiar to Jamaican eyes. A little shop near the park sells Cuban fast food – not patties, but pizzas and ham sandwiches and the like.

Walk down the street and you’ll find a little shop selling basics – well, I know they sell sodas, not sure what else. You’ll also find a cambio – a little shed behind security fencing, with two attendants and a security guard. These cambios are everywhere and are open long hours, making it really easy for me, tourists and Cubans to exchange their FX into convertible pesos ( CUCs). Credit cards are hardly accepted however, and I can’t seem to get anything out of the ATMs. If you get stuck though, the bank at the Hotel National will give you cash on your non-American credit card, at a charge of 11%. So if you are thinking of visiting, take along as much cash as you are likely to need – and unless you want to be taxed 20%, make sure its not American dollars.

Whether you need to get cash or not, the Hotel Nacional is well worth a visit, and is ranked as one of the best hotels in Cuba. But as I sit here watching the Cuban world go by, and hunger for that lunch, I think that maybe I am getting a better taste for the real Cuba than I ever could in one of the five star hotels in Havana proper.

Thoughts on the news

2009-09-28T18:01:00.001-05:00

There are a few interesting storiies in the news right now which I wanted to comment on...

First of all, I don't see anything wrong with a man who had illegal sex with a 13 year old girl (i.e. RAPE) being extradited to the US to pay for his crime, even if it is some 30 years after the fact. Why wasn't he extradited before? Who cares if he can make a movie? What about Joe Blow who did the same thing and can drive a truck well - should he be able to get of Scott free too? Did Switzerland only get this boost of doing the right thing only because of a recent extradition treaty? On what basis can France and Poland protest?

Secondly - if it is so awful for a Third World Muslim country to have nuclear weapons - then why was the dictatorship in Pakistan allowed to get away with it? The ruler of Iran may be crazy, it is true, but there is some level of democracy there (believe it or not). And their crazy neighbour Pakistan (a dictatorship at the time) has the bomb. Calling them unstable would be a compliment. Pakistan has one because India got one. Why India needed one when they have more poor people than anyplace on Earth (apart maybe from China) is beyond me. Maybe its because their neighbour China got one (did they?) Penis envy? And what about that craziest of all nations North Korea? So far only one nation has murdered thousands of innocents with the use of the bomb. Lets hope they don't have that idea again - though I wouldn't expect this President to do something like that.

Thirdly, lastly and definately leastly, if I was the Prime Minister of Spain and my family looked like the Adams family, I would also want to protect them from having their images shown publically.

The poinlessness of soap boxes

2009-09-22T21:49:00.002-05:00

One year after the house of cards called Lehman Brothers collapsed , and bankers are rubbing their hands in anticipation of their Christmas bonuses. If it weren't for the fact that I am hoping that they will send some of that cash my way, I'd be up on a soap box telling them to make atonement. Maybe Chairman Mao had the right idea after all.

On a slightly different plane - about that soap box - I think its high time we moved to beer crates. Soap boxes are piddly little things no more than an inch hich and three inches long. They are constructed of cardboard, so unless you leave the soap in them, they are unlikely to support your weight. And even if they did, they'd only give you an inch more of height. Pointless.

Not a bad day

2009-09-19T16:12:00.001-05:00

Went to Strawberry Hill in the Blue Mountains today. Very nice, but very closed. And it poured with tropical rain which you could see coming from a mile away - first obscurring the view of the mountains to the north, and then enveloping us. But through the drops we could still see sunny Kingston some 5,000 feet below, the Palisados, Port Royal, Lime Cay and the sunny beyond.

Then we went down to Irish Town where we lunched on curry and barbeque chicken (deciding against the cow foot with broad beans) at Crystal Edge, with its view of the lush green valleys. For desert we had cups of Blue Mountain coffee from Cafe Blue along with slices of rum cake and cappachino cheese cake.

Winding our way down to Papine and then Kingston we stopped at the art gallary in Liguanea and then went on to the Bolivar Gallary in Half Way Tree. This is a treasure trove of paintings, books and antiquities. A load of buddhas and gongs and Tibetan pray flags and the like had just arrived from India.

Then back home where we drank Havana Club and Appleton and then a glass of Guabita de Pinar (Seca) before settling into a supper of steak, fresh salad and fried rice.
All together not a bad day.

What's so bad about a loose upper lip?

2008-04-17T16:17:00.002-05:00

Unlike Jamaicans, the English love to make their lives uncomfortable.

Why be warm inside when you can be chilly? Why drive an automatic when you can drive a manual? Why have a mixer on your bathroom taps when you can fling your hands between the boiling hot and freezing cold? Why have the butcher remove the nasty stubbs of inedible chicken feet when you can pay for the extra weight and then deal with removing them yourself? Why buy bacon without the inedible rind when you can buy it with? Why have cable tv when you can limit your view to 4 or 5 pathetic stations?

The list, I'm sure, goes on.

Why have AC in your shops or offices when you can sweat during the summer heat, for example?

Give me a loose upper lip to a stiff one any day.

Internet banking

2008-04-15T15:46:00.001-05:00

I am looking at opening an Internet banking account - one which denies me access to it via the branch, to be rewarded instead with a higher interest rate.

Argument for - higher rate of interest. Argument against - I don't get to stand in a long line (queue, excuse me) waiting and waiting to get access to my hard-earned cash.

Seems like a no-brainer, doesn't it?

High economics

2008-03-12T16:59:00.002-05:00

I read a report in the news recently that Guinea-Bissau is now considered to be the world's first narco-state, thanks to becoming a major cocaine trafficking point on the Colombia to Europe route. The previous route went largely through Jamaica - which because of its positioning in the middle of the Caribbean is perfect for drug trafficking - particuarly to the US.

But recently we have applied more pressure - no doubt with big-time assistance from the US and UK - to the traffickers - and we were no longer as convenient as our geography would suggest. So a new route was found, and Guinea-Bissau - with its multitude of small islands, weak to non-existant sea-border policing and the fact that its as near to South America as Africa gets -is now a major point. In just a couple short years, Colombian drug lords have pretty much taken over the state, and now live free to show off their wealth, albeit with the protection of body guards.

So just how much money Jamaica must have been making from the cocaine trade I don't know - but it must have been much more than I thought. I guess we dodged the bullet of becoming a narco-state. And the money that was flowing in must have allowed us a higher standard of living than we would otherwise have had. I knew this to a certain level - but I wonder now if the cocaine trade helped us to sustain our economy and keep it afloat - as did the ganja trade in the1970s.

And now that we have lost - at least the European trade - it is interesting that our economy does not appear to have suffered a steep decline.

Perhaps the cocaine money was not distributed much in the economy, and went only to the benefit of drug lords and their middlemen and 'facilitators'. It appears this might be the case in Guinnea-Bissau, where the economy appears to remain dreadfully poor - despite this new trade.

Slug fest

2008-03-03T15:26:00.002-05:00

Big vote tomorrow, which could either see Obama basically become the Democratic candidate - or see a continuation of the slug fest. (Quickest soloution for a slug fest? One part water to one part salt).

Meanwhile, Castro has been replaced with Castro - no big change there.

In Jamaica - its a return to the 60s. But the 40s (soon to be 50s) are eagerly waiting in the wings.

Everywhere else, most countries seem to be moving to a younger generation for their leaders. Russia's new guy is 42 or something. Oz. France. Canada. Will the US be next - or will they buck the trend and go the Cuba route?

And now Chavez is upping the ante - moving troops to the Colombian border. Surely Venezuela has something better to do than have a war with Colombia? This guy makes Bush look sane.

Dis and dat

2008-02-29T16:24:00.006-05:00

One of the disadvantages of this blog is that I have no idea if its actually being read. Is this just spinning around in the vast space of the 5th dimensional universe that we call the internet?

The option to run a poll is a great thing - and I've got one or two responses which suggest that there is somebody else out there. But if there's only one response - that means its me. So now you know - I support Obama. In fact, I almost wish I was an American so that I could vote for him. Though I suppose, in time, should he become president, he will be revealed to not actually be the second coming of Christ, and turn out to be a bit of a disappointment. Or perhaps a major disappointment.

Anyway, I have a blog on another site - which is populated by half-crazed crackpots who are politically just right of Atilla the Hun. So getting comments isn't necessarily great either, as you may find yourself defending your sanity to people who have no problem in being over-the-top obnoxious just because they can get away with it.

Now I could say something here about Kern Spencer - the Jamaican politician who has found himself in hot water. But I think I'll save that for another blog -as he is now facing a court. I ain't saying his guilty and I ain't saying he ain't. But I would like to say that assuming he is a scapegoat for the PNP, that I hope he becomes a singing scapegoat - and implicates all those who may have been involved in this great scheme. Perhaps that way he could reduce the prison time he may face - as well as allow us the chance to help persuade future politicians to think 20 times before they think of robbing the tax payer of his hard-earned cash.

The Obama train

2008-02-21T14:40:00.002-05:00

Its time for a new generation in American politics. England has had their Tony Blair - and now David Cameron. France has their model-hugging president. Oz has thier new wizard.

Vietnam is over. Time for Obama - who is inspiring anyone that leans towards the Democratic party, and more besides - just ask any Jamaican. You only have to look at the exicement everywhere he goes - 20,000 supporters going mad at the thought of getting a gaze from him. He's inspiring them to believe that they can make America a better place, and the world whilst they are at it. Creating enthusiasm for a new Peace Corps, for helping the less fortunate. He has the potential of being a cross between Martin Luther King and JFK.

A 72 year old McCain - can he really compete?

I never thought that a black (or half-black) man with a name like Barrack Obama really stood much chance of becoming president of the USA. But it looks like I was wrong.

But when it comes down to the crunch, are Americans open-minded enough to vote for him. Or will Racism prove too big an obstacle? I beleive that enough Americans are now over the race segregation of the 1960s and 70s - and that they will vote for him en masse.

Bland soup

2008-02-19T17:15:00.001-05:00

Well, I spoke way too soon in my last bolg - and I'm now writing to you a full 12 pounds lighter than the last time I wrote to you . Thanks to some bug I acquired last week with gastro attached. I'm back at work - but still haven't had a proper meal since atleast last week Monday. Last night I had half a bowl of tomato soup. I suppose the tomato sounds brave - but I've gone off the idea of chicken noodle soup- as I had some last Tuesday which I think made matters ratherworse, and am now associating with this illness. Will go out on the prowl today for something like butternut squash, potato and leek or some other blandish soup.

Anyway, as a result of not eating for more than a week I am feeling quite feak and weeble. But I'm here feeling somewhat better than last week.

My time in Trinidad was great and busy. Lots of parties. Dancing in costume in the street. Little sleep. Came back on Ash Wednesday feeling quite fine - as opposed to most others who were down with coughs or sinus problems. I thought I had escaped. But perhaps I had weakened my immune system - resulting in my Tuesday cough and sniffles followed swiftly by the works including extreme fatique by Wednesday afternoon.

Slept for 16 hours on Saturday (Feb 16) and was on Dr's orders to do nothing on the weekend, so didn't. I suppose that helped significantly. Start to question one's own existence however, when you've been out of the loop for so long....

Kingston vs. Port of Spain

2008-02-12T10:55:00.000-05:00

Trinidad seems to be the hurry-come-up sibling of Jamaica. After a week of partying there for Carnival, and seeing some of the country during trips to parties and back to the house, I think I can now qualify as a Trinidad expert.

Port of Spain seems both richer and poorer than Kingston. Smaller too - but with much worse traffic jams (but maybe that was just Carnival traffic). Where as in Jamaica everyone has to impress with their wheels, with SUVs and BMWs being the order of the day - everyone in Trinidad seems to drive second hand Nissan Sunnys. Much of their buildings seem a little delapidated and not terribly attractive - picture Vineyard Town. But gleaming skyscrapers are now being built. Their hills would be impressive, if our mountains weren't more so.

The climate was not as hot as I expected - which is a good thing. And the neighbourhood we stayed in was very well kept, with green grass on the sidewalks and large homes on small lots. There seems to be more shanty type buildings and less mansions in the hills overlooking the city than is the case in Kingston.

I had a feeling of greater security there than here - although the opposite is the case for wealthy Trinis who visit here.

Yes - the two cities - if not countries are definately related. Jamaica is more beautiful - but they have more money. And money improves the looks of just about anybody.

Amber of the Gods

2008-01-29T14:29:00.000-05:00

If we accept that rum is the amber nectar of the gods, then the gods or God himself must be a Jamaican.

In Trinidad, I'll be getting into this carnival as much as my spirit will allow. I, like all Jamaicans, firmly believe that we produce the best rum - and that we also have a huge variety.

Barbados and their Mount Gay and Cockspur - are better than Trinidad. But really there is a great range in flavours around the West Indies. Martinique's rum is unlike those of the English speaking islands, because they (I understand) make theirs straight from sugar cane - and not from molasses. Molasses is the by-product of sugar - making rum a by-(by?) product of sugar - even though it now makes far more money than sugar.

Guyana has a very good rum called El Dorado. Cuba's 12 year old Havana Club is good - smells great. Haiti has a great rum too - the name slips me at the moment. But Jamaican rum stands in a class by itself - particuarly aged rums - there is an Appleton 21 year old, which should be drunk like a brandy. There is also Edwin Charley Black Label - which I think is kind of whiskey like. Younger Appletons. Gold Label Trelawny Rum - which used to be very popular in the 1970s and 80s, but lost out to Appleton special in the 90s. We have a new rum brand called Port Royal.

On top of this we have darker rums which are mainly for export (all the ones I have listed here are gold rums). The dark rums include the ones that the English are probably most familiar with - which are no longer for the Jamaican palate - Captain Morgan, Lambs Navy Rum, Myers. Coruba is dark and sweet and is the most popular rum in New Zealand.

We also make a white rum which is very popular with the masses - called J. Wray and Nephew Overproof. It is akin to lighter fluid - but smells worse. I am embarrassed to admit that many of my own friends have switched from Appleton Special or Appleton V/X to white rum - many mixing it with cranberry juice or coconut water.

You will note that I haven't mentioned Bacardi, which no self-respecting Jamaican would ever consider to be even remotely related to rum - and would place it further down the ratings than I place our white rum.

Wining, whining and rum

2008-01-28T17:33:00.000-05:00

I'm off to Trinidad this week. Carnival! Trinidad's is reputed - at least in this part of the world - to be the best on the planet. I think it probably deserves that reputation - though residents of New Orleans, Rio and Venice and God know's where else may disagree.

I am a Trinidad Carnival virgin. But I have been to carnival here in Jamaica quite a few times and to Notting Hill a few times as well. Notting Hill seems to me to be much ado about nothing - with an audience of millions. Jamaica Carnival is fun - much smaller - and quite artificial. Well for us its just a reason to have a party - nothing to do with lent. Nothing at all, as it is actually held in the Easter period. And also, Soca music, though fairly popular, is not ours. Reggae and dance hall are our music. We do get some Jamaican music in our carnival - but Soca is the driver.

As for the tipple - everyone knows that Trinidadian rum is almost undrinkable - so all Jamaicans are expected to carry as much Appleton - or dare I say Gold Label? as they can carry. But I intend to give the old Royal Oak a try - really I do. Anyway, now that the Trinis have bought Lascelles, I guess they will finally have a decent rum. Its kind of sobering that Jamaica no longer owns its rum - but on the good side - at least I've got a good price for my shares.

Anyway - don't know how I'm going to survive a week of partying, drinking, wining and whining. But I'm gonna give it my best shot.

Take care Best Care

2008-01-24T16:20:00.000-05:00

I have just been to the 'Best Care Chidren's Home' here in Kingston - not knowing what to expect.

The home is near to New Kingston - but hidden on a back road. Quite a large plot of land with a pleasant enough building with faded murals of flowers, cartoon figures and butterflies and the like. My first sight was a man with a wide and fixed grin walking along all the while trying to free his hands which were quite loosly tied behind his back.

Inside we went to the dining area, where little children - the smallest being about 9 years old but looking like a slight three year old - were being treated to a meal of sweet and sour chicken, rice and peas, vegetables and cups of juice. Many of the chilren were unable to speak or feed themselves. Many were reaching out to get some sort of human affection, even from strangers like me.

I saw another man who also had his hands tied behind his back. Why, we asked? The nurse in charge told us that the first one had a tendency to remove his trousers - which she was sure we wouldn't like to see. The other had a tendency to dig into the rubbish and eat food from there.

The first man eventually managed to release his hands, and first took a big handful of food from a bowl of food that was unattended. Later, he seemed to alternate between trying to put his free hand back into its cloth strap and trying to remove his trousers - which the staff had purposely put on him back to front, a trick which seemed to do much as the second line of defence.

Later, the children went off to the classrooms at another section of the building, while the older residents - many in their 20s came in for their lunch. Many of them were in a very sad state, unable to walk, some in wheel chairs, some basically pulling themselves across the floor, severely challenged both physically and mentally. Drooling, crawling, making noices but not speaking - but peaceful - and not in a drugged sort of way, just naturally peaceful.

We saw their dorms - the beds all made very well, with large stuffed toys on many of the pillows. Tv's and fans on the walls.

Its tragic to me, but heartening to know that we have such a place for these orphans of the state. The care they are getting may or may not live up to the name of the home, but on the limited resources available, at least they seem to be happy enough. The range in ages was surprising - but there is nowhere for many of them to go as they get older.

The home gets by on some aid from the state and donations from various businesses. Out of sight, these people are out of our minds - but thankfully are not completely forgotten, even in a country where human life often seems so cheap.

Sticks, stones and words

2008-01-22T15:08:00.000-05:00

Five people are killed by police Tivoli Gardens. And the talk in Jamaica seems not to be about the deaths themselves - but whether or not a policeman said that 'innocents' died. It appears that it was the reporter who said it and not the policeman - but who should really care?

People died - who may or may not have been innocent. Investigations will hopefully tell the truth. Few people believe the police at the best of times - so why should they assume that the policeman would be telling the truth on this occasion.

The point is not what the policeman said - the point should be what is the truth.

The question should be, was it right for these people to be killed by the police - innocent or not?

But words, it seems, are far more important than actions.

Global bad news is local good news?

2008-01-21T12:06:00.000-05:00

Stock markets globally are falling, thanks to fears of an impending or existing US recession.

Meanwhile, the Jamaican stock market seems to be doing quite well - proof of the contrary nature of our economy.

It should be a roller coaster year, but perhaps our market will boom this year, as 'Altertative Investment' investors seek safer harbour, and as our economy continue to buck global economic trends, whether they are positive or negative.

Given that we managed to accomplish negative growth when the rest of the world was booming, a global recession might be great news for us, as our economy may now grow. As long as no pyramids tumble, and as long as mother nature gives us a break - we may have a chance.

The alternative, that we will do even worse than the rest of the world, is not worth thinking about.

All a flutter

2008-01-16T16:50:00.000-05:00

New government, new year, clean sheets - true there's a bit of wind and a lot of hot air - but let us not dwell on that.

Holy to Unholy Fun

2008-01-10T15:23:00.000-05:00

Christmas is over - it seemed to go buy a little more pleasantly this year. Its a great time to be in Jamaica - especially if you have the bucks for all the big parties - Boom, Utopia, Frenchmen and more. But even if you don't there's plenty more going on - Maiden Cay if you are off work and can get a ride to the sandbank. Maiden Cay is a pretty good name for it, given the fine lassies that pack the little spit like sardines in a can.

But now that the holy season is over in Jamaica, its time to think about the unholy one in Trinidad - namely that sin-packed bachanal known as Carnival

Well - I presume its sin-packed. In sun tan oil. Don't know for sure. I'll be heading to T&T at the end of this month to find out for sure.

With all the jumping and dancing and walking and standing and what not - I hope that Port of Spain doesn't become a Port of Pain.

The power of positive thinking

2007-11-20T17:43:00.000-05:00

Three months of rain, an office 6 feet underground, the need to find a new job like yesterday - all contribute to a feeling of being 'down in the mouth.' I've been trying a few therapies to get over this. Positive thinking and positive drinking.
Positive drinking is fine - it entails going to my local and downing enough alcohol to make myself feel 'up in the mouth'. But one tends to feel that perhaps this isn't a terribly good idea - I'm sure someone somewhere has said something about the dangers of drinking as a mood enhancer.
Yesterday I tried a bit of positive thinking - and later had a few drinks - mainly rum. Rum's my chum. And I found that worked too - perhaps better than drink alone.
So far today I've just used positive thinking - it ain't drinking time yet - and its carried me through the day quite well.
So I think a combination of the two therapies is called for. Positve thinking followed by a bout of positive drinking followed by a bout of positive thinking. What will happen if I try both at once? Can I multi-cask like that? Does it bear drinking about?

Here at last...

2007-09-14T17:24:00.001-05:00

The new government in Jamaica is finally in place. Now the work starts in trying to turn around this country after 18.5 long years of mismanagment at best.

If anyone wants to see what a statesman should look like - they should take a look at Bruce Golding our new prime minister. OK - he may not look all that great - he doesn't have the movie-star good looks of Michael Manley. But his speeches so far have been excellent. Jamaica is lucky to have him. The US would be lucky to have him. Not really sure about Brown at the mo - so I won't say anything there.

Meanwhile, the opposition is attempting to have several MPs disqualified from parliament - in an attempt (hopefully futile) to gain power through the back door. They are saying that as many as 8 MPs have foreign citizenship, in contravention of our constitution. This could open up a real unpleasant can of worms. But hopefully worms or not, there will be some wiggle room - that can allow a sensible legal soloution.

The future is green

2007-08-29T16:16:00.000-05:00

Our crazy government in Jamaica is losing the little sense God gave them. The PM called a state of emergency after Dean hit. Nobody knew what that entailed. It was apparant that the elections, set for the 27th would be postponed - nobody knew till when.The Governor General gave one reason for the state of emergency, the PM another. The Electoral body said that we would have elections on the 3rd,. The government said not necessarily. The ministry of education said we would have them on the 3rd.

There were rumours that the government was divided, and that the PM had boxed the minister of education (both formidable women) in the face during a cabinet meeting - and that the minister of finance had to split them up.

The PM said she wouldn't lift the state of emergency until power and light had been restored - which the power company told us could be weeks. It looked like we could have the elections under the state of emergency - as was done by Michael Manley in 1976 - when he used the opportunity to lock up several Jamaica Labour Party (JLP) MPs. Then she lifted it the next day. And we were finally told that elections would be on Sept 3.

I am hopeful (knock wood) that the JLP will in fact win. To help them along, I will be working on election day as a 'cluster supervisor' looking after a few polling stations in the National Arena, for the JLP. This could be a very exciting role - but hopefully will not be. The ruling Peoples National Party (PNP) are not beyond trying to intimidate and to steal boxes. My sanity has already been questioned by colleagues and friends - and I have been asked if I am the right colour for such a role.

I've been having a few meetings at the constituency office - and its been very interesting seeing what's involved and meeting the grass roots people who are involved.

Anyway, its all very exciting. And if the JLP lose this one then God help us all. I think several high-ranking members of the PNP would also like to lose given their poor opinion of Portia the PM. But I suppose there could be some opportunity there too - as people may flee the country in droves, creating employment opportunities perhaps, or real estate deals - a la the 1970s.

This woman really seems to have lost the plot. Referring to herself in the third person as 'Mama P' - up from the former 'Sista P'. The radio ad which sang a happy jingle thanking "Papa God' for giving us 'Mama P' took the cake.

The police and army and election day workers (not me) voted yesterday - and indications are that the vast majority of them (according to the JLP canvas) voted JLP. For one polling station it was beleived to be 134 for the JLP and 19 for the PNP - which is hopefully a good indication that the future is Green (the JLP colour) and not orange (the PNP's).

Dean and the election

2007-08-17T15:33:00.000-05:00

Hurricane Dean is barreling towards Jamaica - already a cat 3, it may hit us on Sunday.

What impact could Dean have on the elections?

The elections could be delayed by up to a month if the GG deems it necessary. The big political meeting the JLP was going to have at HWT on Sunday - with atleast 70k people in attendance has been postponed.

If the hurricane hits it may help the JLP - because it may intensify the mood of changing course - but hurt the country.

But if it hits and everyone feels an outpouring of love for portia and her ability to hug and kiss and look caring - then it could help the PNP.

Right now, the jlp should win - so any delay could help the PNP - evn though the JLP has the momentum

So - if its a JLP hurricane it will change course. If its a PNP hurricane - like Portia - it won't be changing no course.

Portia has called a meeting of the emergency services to discuss hurricane preparation. This surprises me - I would expect her to call a meeting of churchmen and pray instead. Except perhaps, she would be praying for it to hit.

Change is coming baby

2007-08-14T10:43:00.000-05:00

Our elections in Jamaica are around the corner. Nah change no course with the PNP - or voting for a better Jamaica with the JLP.

To me there is little choice. Had the JLP been in power for 18.5 years I'd probably think they had been in power too long, especially if the end result was one of the highest murder rates in the world, corruption without equal, children leaving school without being literate, stagnation and inflation. The danger to democracy should we have one party in power for 23 years is too scary to contemplate.

So I will be voting for the JLP - and I am happier to do so now that I have seen their manifesto, which is even better than the manifesto they had in 2002 - and is a document which inspires and brings hope. There is very little hope in Jamaica anymore. Most people seem to think that we can not transform ourselves and that we should be happy with a growth rate of 1 or 2 per cent. That we should be content with having a per capita income that is now the second lowest in the region, after Haiti - now that Guyana has overtaken us.

And yet, we expect so much from ourselves in other areas - golds athe Olympics, the song of the century, etc.

No government after 18+ years in power can come up with new ideas - all they can offer is more of the same at best. The JLP offers more of the same at least.

So - I hope if you are a Jamaican with a vote that you also want to vote for a change of course. If not, I hope you will won't bother yourself with a trip to the polling station - especially if you live abroad. Visit after the election! I beleive the JLP will win - but if they don't there will be much opportunity I expect - as there will be renewed emigration.

Stealing manifestos

2007-07-30T14:40:00.000-05:00

The JLP - Jamaica's opposition party - is launching its manifesto today, the first party to do so before the general elections of August 27th.

No doubt it will be a thick and well thought out document - outlining their plans for their hoped for term in government.

No doubt the ruling PNP - which will be launching its manifesto on August 9th - will pilfer,lift, plagerise and down-right steal most of the best ideas, which they will then scramble to put in a basic and flimsy document 10 days later.

That is what happened 5 years ago - so there's no need to expect different this time. Hopefully though, the electorate will not be fooled this time around.

Fact is 99% of the electorate, if not more, do not read the manifestos anyway - although some will get to hear about them trough the media. The JLP had the better manifesto by far last time and it made little difference. Or did it?

Any number can play - not just a 7

2007-07-24T16:30:00.000-05:00

Hey guys - you still out there? Were you ever?

OK - topic of the mo. is the upcoming election. August 27 is the date. And its deja-vu all over again. The PNP's slogan -Time for a Change - which it ran with in the 1972 election is back again. But now its on the JLP's lips. And the PNP is left saying 'We not changing no course.' While at the same time proving their gymnastic capabilities by saying 'We are the party of change'.

Quite how they will not change while changing remains to be seen.

Portia Simpson Miller (PSM being the correct TLA) - is busy painting herself as God's chosen one - while at the same time taking an unholy interest in the number 7. We have 7 national heros, this is the 7th month, blah, blah, so nomination day is the 7th of August and election day is the 27th.

Her religious defenders tell us that the number 7 is very relevant to Christians. Haven't heard them speak of the 7 deadly sins though.

Meanhwile, the poll by the Gleaner (and PNP's) pollster puts them at 40% and the JLP at 34%. But the analysis shows the JLP leading in every segment bar one - the oldest group. So quite how that can be, I don't know.

Violence appears to be up - as the climate and the politics heat up, we can expect more of the same.

Redemption or Retribution

2007-05-30T16:18:00.000-05:00

Back in 1994 the Privy Council stated that Earl Pratt had been on death row for way too long - about 16 years at the time, and could no longer be hanged for the murder that he and Ivan Morgan were convicted of in 1978.

I interviewed him the next day in the Spanish Town Penitentiary. At the time it seemed to me that there were way more people that I would have preferred to see hanging from a rope than Earl Pratt, who seemed like a decent enough murder. I even hoped that he might have been unjustly accused.

I interviewed Ivan Morgan the next day. He did not look like a man who had just escaped the death penalty and seemed much more concerned about his poor state of health. He died in jail about a year later.

About a week ago, after almost 30 years in jail, Earl Pratt was released. He has since been to church and has preached to youngsters about not following his footsteps. On radio this morning he admitted that he had infact committed that murder.

But still - I believe that he will be able to make a positive contribution to Jamaica's society - as a man who is seeking redemption. If he can convince people here to turn away from the gun - if less people are murdered as a result, then the society benefits more than it would had his own life been extinguished by the state.

But, the majority of Jamaicans no doubt disagree - and if the government had been legally able to overtun the Privy Council ruling it would have. It is still working on that by wanting to create a Caribbean Court of Justice as our highest court.

Muslim clerics, Virgin's progress and Slavery

2007-05-25T15:04:00.000-05:00

Jamaica has been in the news this week - not much of it good. A mad muslim cleric is being sent back to Jamaica (what's old is what's new). He has lived in England since 1992, and now he's been released early from prison to become Jamaica's problem. Hopefully he won't create a terrorist base here. But, as he hasn't been found guilty of any crime here, he will be free to give it a shot.

Air Jamaica has sold its route to Virgin - so there will be no more Jamaican national carrier flying into Heathrow. But as its on its last wings anyway, hopefully this could actually help to save the the little piece of Jamaica that flies. How it was losing money on that route when the planes were always full beats me. Maybe Virgin will have better luck.

And last but not least John Prescott came to Jamaica. For what I don't know. But he announced to a Jamaican audience that Britain had no reason to apologise for slavery. Mike Henry, a member of parliament here, walked out in disgust. Prescott's also added that the effort now should be on helping African nations rather than formal apologies.

This sounds to me like madness - akin to Japan refusing to apologise to Korea for its crimes against humanity there during World War II. But why the effort should be now on helping African nations - when they were the Africans who escaped slavery and who escaped the middle passage, I don't know. The Africans who were ripped from their motherland and who now live in the Caribbean should be given no thought at all it seems.

Meahwhile, Jamaica and the rest of the Caribbean are supposed to be happy at losing their protected markets in Britian for sugar and bananas, the sidelining of the Commonwealth in preference to the EU and ..... well that's about it I think.

More crickets than cricket

2007-05-01T16:51:00.000-05:00

May Day! May Day!

New month - also the cricket is now well and truly over. Our white elephant in the green fields of Trelawny can now kick back and watch the grass grow. Well, really, our white elephant has been doing just that since the last guest left the grand opening ceremony more than six weeks ago.

Sabina Pork put on a good show. I went to two matches - the first one, between the WI and Pakistan and then the St. Patrick's Day massacre. That one was fun, watching from the 'party stand' and watching Ireland do the impossible. The first one was fun too - when it seemed that the WI really had a chance.

But fun or not, I think I could have had more fun for Ja$9 billion than that. And the sad fact is that Jamaica may never recoup anything like that $9 billion, no matter what the spinners say. Hardly anyone came for a start. Not even Jamaicans (except for that first game). No ships were needed to house the thousands of tourists.

And the white elephant certainly wasn't needed - and I'm certain that there is no practical plan in place to try to recoup its cost. It makes the Forum Hotel look like a God send. Greenback Fields is destined to see more crickets than cricket.

Hopefully, the public will believe their eyes and not their ears when election time comes. It may then finally vote against a government that thought it better to play with 9 billion desperately needed dollars than to actually try to improve our schools, hospitals, police and economy.

The party's over - it never really began. Now that the hoopla is gone, empty promises, chirping crickets and the occasional passing of tumbleweed have taken over.

Elvis celebrates St. Patrick's day in Jamaica

2007-03-20T16:33:00.000-05:00

Elvis and his twin joined the Conga line on the Party Mound at Sabina Park on St. Patrick's Day - as they cheered on Ireland in their cricket match against Pakistan.

Well - as incredible as it may seem - its true. There's the picture to prove it.

But even the greatest Elvis-sceptic would have greater ease in swallowing that one, than beleiving that the minnow Ireland would whoop killer whale Pakistan. Impossible.

But I witnessed it - and survived hundreds of beer swilling Irish men, women, six-foot tall leprechauns, Elvis and his dopple-ganger - to tell the tale.

Unfortunately, that is more than can be said for the Pakistani coach who died hours later- presumably a stress-realted heart attack.

Anyway - after 15 consecutive months of being on the rock, it is official, I have islanditis. Only known cure is getting away. I'm going to Graceland, (Graceland, Memphis, Tennessee I'm going to Graceland) where I expect to see either Elvis or his twin ( I still can't tell them apart).

But perhaps he will be here cheering Ireland onto victory over the WI at their next match on Friday.

Weirder things have happened.

V/C in the capital

2007-03-14T16:34:00.000-05:00

Went to my first World Cup cricket game yesterday - West Indies vs. Pakistan at Sabina Park. There were about 10 Pakistanis there - give or take - and 19,946 West Indians, mainly Jamaican.

The most exciting part of the day, however, was not the match - but my first attempt of getting to the match.

At about 8:15 a.m. we are just past the first lights on Waterloo in the regular morning traffic jam when my fellow cricket fan sees a Gleaner guy. I don't have $30 and nor does he. So he takes $100 from his wallet and gives the vendor/cretin - who gives him $50 change. 'Do you want an Observer?' asks the v/c - no says David - mi just want mi change. So the guy says, is the magazine in there? There isn't and so on that pretext the v/c gives him another and drops one on the floor of the car. David is bending down to get the paper while the other guy has his arms in the car supposedly picking up the paper or something. I know he's up to something, so I grab my phone and my camera. The traffic is moving - David still hasn't got his extra $20 change and the guy goes off and I move with the traffic.

I say to David- that guy was up to something funny - at which point David realises he is no longer in possesion of his wallet.

I pull over to the left, stop the car - get out to find the guy (what I'm going to do if I find him I don't know) but he has disappeared. I call 119. Police say come in and make a report. I go back to car - the wallet is definately gone.

So the wallet is gone. With a hunk of money in it. I was not a happy camper. And David wasn't either. Anyway - we drove around like lunatics - because I was heading for the police at Half Way Tree, but David didn't want to bother make a report because what would be the point.

Long story short - went to Liganea police - they said go to Half Way Tree. Make a report there - but they really don't seem interested at all. Can't blame them really - nobody murdered so why bother? And with the cricket here, I guess they are stretched enough.

After all that negativity, David doesn't want to go anymore. I call a friend and we go together, getting to the cricket a little late. My mood has improved by this point, but if it hadn't the general atmosphere of genuine bonhommy (is that how you spell it) would have. Getting there late turned out not to be so bad. Our seats were in the very first row - so were in the sun until just after we got there - which was good timing really.

The only real prob was food. We were starving - but so were 20,000 other people. At 1:00, food lines were long and stationary (an unpleasant reminder of the Waterloo incident) and then the food ran out. So we gave up. It wasn't until around 2:30 that we discovered an air conditioned bar that we could have gone to all along - no lines and great hotdogs.

Hopefully the memory of the enjoyment of the cricket will soon supersede that of the v/c and his monetary gain - in the not too distant future. The Windies won after all.

Potty pots

2007-03-07T17:11:00.000-05:00

I have a computer that slides along at the pace of an arthritic snail. After defragging and checking for spyware (whatever that is) I have just finished checking for viruses. Hopefully it will pick up speed now. But I doubt it.

I watched the 9/11 documentary last night - thanks to the fact that there was a power cut somewhere between my cable station and my house. Well, happily I had light - but no TV. Some of the apartments around me were in pitch black. Anyway, I'm not a big fan of Michael Moore, but I had nothing else to watch - so watch it I did. Turned out to be not that he's not that rabid after all. And the plus side for Bush is that he doesn't come out looking as too stupid, just evil.

And then the cable came back and I watched a documentary about Abu Graib and the torture that American troops put potentially innocent Iraquis through. And how such torture appears to have been approved by Rumsfeld.

And who know's what is going on in Guantanamo Bay.

So it was really refreshing to read today that the US government is critisizing the Jamaican government for its treatment of prisoners! Do as I say, not as I do.

Talk about the pot calling the kettle black! Why can't the pot call the pot black for a change?

How seriously does the American government think such a remark will be treated? Where is their moral authority?

Sabina Pork Barrel

2007-02-27T20:31:00.000-05:00

Pictures of Jamaica and elsewhere are all very well, but I haven't taken any decent ones in a while, and feel the need to post something.

Only a few days left before the official opening of the Cricket World Cup - at a spanking new stadium in the back of beyond. In a country that has one of the highest (if not the highest) rates of debt per capita the Greenback Fields stadium has been built only for the opening ceremony. With that kind of fiscal responsibility, it makes you wonder how we ever got into this position in the first place.

The actual games are to take place in Sabina Pork, which has been radically transformed into what should be an equally impressive stadium. Total cost to the country is said to be $8.17 billion. Hopefully any positive spin-offs will exceed that - but it seems doubtful.

Meanwhile a group of church members are now busy trying to tart-up Kingston just in time for our guests - cleaning streets and what not. But they may need to clean-up much more than they bargained for, as they dodge all the mud that is being slung at them from afar.

What sort of Christians are they, it is asked, if the only time they ever venture to do anything about Jamaica's social decay is when some foreigners are coming over to watch cricket? Why not before? What about after? Or why at all as what do we pay taxes for? And why don't they get excited about crime - murder especially? But government should be happy anyway, that somebody is doing something - as should most people, many of whom may have forgotten what a clean city looks like.

So far there doesn't seem to be any overwhelming feel-good factor at play. There's no real buzz. I wonder if this is what Athens felt like just before the Olympics?

But the governing party will be hoping that these games will be such a success that the electorate will feel like adding another five years to their 18 years in power. A miraculous win by the WI would probably do just that. If I knew enough about cricket I could put in a few funny lines here about sticky wickets, spin bowlers and googlies and things like that. But I don't, so I won't.

And now that the government claims it has paid back Trafigura Bequeer for the $31 million dollars that mysteriously ended up in their party's coffers- it is hoping that the claims of hanky panky will die a convenient death.

That, however, is as likely to happen as the West Indies becoming the next world champions.

Strawberry Hills forever and ever

2006-12-15T14:47:00.000-05:00

A little church is closer to heaven than a large shack - by atleast 200 feet.

Alligator Hole

2006-11-15T17:43:00.000-05:00

No manatees. Definately no alligators. No crocodiles to be seen. Hot day. Lets swim. You first.

My namesake

2006-09-15T11:32:00.000-05:00

A portrait of my namesake circa 1650 or somewhere around there.

Little Ochie Boats

2006-08-17T16:03:00.000-05:00

Little Ochie boats close to sunset/Alligator Pond 2006
Alice can you see this now?

Rajastan Pic on

2006-08-11T16:44:00.000-05:00

Pic - ok now i'm trying to figure out how to get a pic onto this thing- oh let me try that picture thingy of a mountain or whatever...

Ok - it seems to be thinking about it...

Still thinking...

Well thats nice it says its done, but where's the pic?

Again maybe?

OK - got the pic - one of them anyway - seven times, and in the wrong position. But I got the pic.

Have deleted 6 - now can I move it?
yup.. Damn! I've erased it..... And there's no oops key.

Try again?

OK - I think I got it this time...

10 Aug 06

2006-08-10T16:57:00.000-05:00

What is all this blogging thing about? Am I missing something? Or is it just the opposite of a personal diary - one that can be read by the whole world, and therefore likely to be severely self-edited, and therefore hardly worth reading by anyone.

This is a test. This is only a test.

A Jamaican Waterloo...